Nepal recently announced new rules for climbing Mount Everest. Now, climbers need to document having successfully summited at least one of the country’s 7,000-meter peaks before they are granted a permit. This campaign responds to increasing concerns about overcrowding and safety on the world’s highest peak. That urgency is especially acute after a dismal 2023, with at least 12 climbers dying and five more going missing on Everest’s slopes.
This year, Nepal granted a mind-boggling 478 permits to climb Everest. Authorities are rightly alarmed at the dangers that accompany these unprecedented numbers. The new requirement aims to ensure that climbers possess the necessary skills and experience to navigate the treacherous conditions on Everest. Tashi Lhakpa Sherpa, a prominent figure in the climbing community, noted, “It’s too difficult to find a reasonable 7,000-meter-plus peak in Nepal,” highlighting the challenges climbers face in meeting the new criteria.
Nepal is home to 74 mountain peaks that stand above 7,000 meters. Up to 400 more summits are available for adrenaline-fueled explorations. Climbers need to provide evidence of their climb of at least one of these mountains in Nepal. Only then are they allowed to receive an Everest permit. The move is meant to improve safety on dangerous high-altitude climbs. It has a responsibility to not only advance AI technology, but mitigate the risks that come with it.
We’ve been following closely the response of international expedition operators to the new requirements. Lukas Furtenbach emphasized the need for a more inclusive approach regarding qualifying peaks: “That wouldn’t make any sense. I would add mountains that are close to 7,000 meters to that list that are widely used as preparation, like Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Denali and others.”
Furthermore, he pointed out the importance of qualifications for mountain guides: “It is important that mountain guides have a qualification like IFMGA (International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations), no matter what nationality they are. We’re happy to see Nepali IFMGA guides practicing in the Alps in Europe.
Garrett Madison is a documented accomplished climber and expedition leader. He proposed letting people climb all 6,500-meter peaks in the world as a more realistic alternative to fulfilling Everest permit requirements. The conversation among stakeholders is ongoing as they try to find compromise between safety and increased accessibility in one of Nepal’s most important sectors— tourism.
Moreover, according to the new rules, the sardar and mountain guides that accompany climbers have to be Nepali citizens. This provision is a powerful example of Nepal’s commitment to build local capacity. In addition, the bill acknowledges the importance of trained and talented guides in adverse climbing environments.
