In the rolling fields of New York State lies a large dairy farm, home to approximately 1,400 cows under the diligent care of 20 workers. This emblematic farm reflects a broader trend in U.S. agriculture: the consolidation of dairy farms into larger operations. Over the past 50 years, the number of dairy farms has declined significantly, with large farms now dominating the sector. By 2022, farms with herds of 1,000 cows or more became the standard, while the largest dairies boast 5,000 to 10,000 cows.
Amidst these changes, immigrant workers, many from Latin America, play a crucial role in sustaining these operations. Luís Jimenez, a dairy worker, estimates that immigrants constitute 90% of the workforce on his farm. However, these workers face numerous challenges, including lack of access to healthcare and precarious immigration statuses. Further complicating their lives is the looming threat of bird flu, an outbreak currently affecting poultry flocks across multiple states. The H5N1 strain poses potential dangers to humans, yet information dissemination to workers is lacking.
The decline in the number of U.S. dairy farms has been especially pronounced between 2017 and 2022. This trend is largely attributed to the rise of corporate-owned "Big Agriculture," which now dominates the landscape. A report by the USDA's Economic Research Service (ERS) highlights that consolidation in dairy farming has led to the disappearance of small farms. The largest farms are often owned by corporate entities, emphasizing efficiency and production over traditional farming practices.
"Cows are less likely to graze in pastures and are more likely to be confined within large barns and lots," write the authors of the ERS report.
Jimenez sheds light on the vital role played by immigrant workers on these expansive farms. Speaking to Salon, he emphasized the dependency of cows on their caretakers.
"They depend on [us] to feed them, to move them from place to place, and to check them to be sure they are not sick," Jimenez stated. "So in my opinion the cows depend very much on our presence on the farm because we are the ones who maintain their health, who keep them clean, who clean the stables. We ensure the cleanliness of the water they drink … the boss’ business depends on the cows and on their production."
Despite their critical contributions, many dairy workers remain undocumented. In New York alone, over 50% of workers are estimated to lack proper immigration documents. Such circumstances leave them vulnerable and hesitant to seek medical treatment for work-related injuries. The fear of deportation looms large, exacerbated by a lack of support from farm owners.
"It’s sad and frustrating that we are critical in the farm, vital to the industry, and the owners do nothing to protect workers in this situation we’re in with respect to immigration," Jimenez said.
The bird flu outbreak adds another layer of complexity to their plight. The Centers for Disease Control (CDC) has reported ongoing cases of H5N1 in commercial and backyard poultry flocks. Despite this threat, information regarding safety measures is scant among farm workers.
"The information we have as workers and as part of the organization, we get it from other institutions and other organizations that bring this information to keep workers informed," Jimenez explained. "The bosses don’t offer this kind of information … there are very few farms that are informing their workers [about H5N1]."
This lack of communication underscores a broader issue: the marginalization of dairy workers within an industry increasingly driven by profit margins and efficiency rather than employee welfare. Jimenez believes raising awareness is imperative for change.
"I believe the reality is that if we don’t raise our voices and don’t tell anyone [about undocumented workers and the value of our work], no one knows that we exist because they’ve always kept us quiet," he said.
Economic policies have further influenced this dynamic. A study found that Trump's 2017 tax cuts primarily benefited wealthier farmers, potentially widening disparities within agriculture. During his administration, Trump also weakened the USDA's Economic Research Service (ERS), an institution vital for providing unbiased agricultural data.
Jim MacDonald noted, "without ERS, USDA would be left with relying on commodity trade groups and advocacy groups to make stuff up," he asserted. "The information would be lower quality, and it would be packed with lies."
The erosion of such institutions impacts both policy-making and farm workers' lives, as reliable data becomes scarce. Nevertheless, initiatives like Alianza Agrícola are making strides in supporting dairy workers. Founded by workers themselves during the COVID-19 pandemic, this organization provides crucial information and assistance to those navigating complex challenges.
As New York's vast dairy farms continue their operations amidst industry shifts and health threats, immigrant workers remain at the heart of these endeavors. Their resilience and dedication are indispensable to sustaining a sector facing myriad obstacles.
