For geoducks—the delicious giants of Washington State and British Columbia clam beds—this is a cusp moment. Rising trade tensions with China are threatening its future. It has a robust flavor that conjures images of deep sea water. It’s become a popular delicacy in China, where roughly 90 percent of Washington’s exports go. China’s new 125% tariff on U.S. geoduck has made partnership with the Chinese trade more difficult. This important new tax is causing confusion and uncertainty for the dive and fish harvesters in Washington State.
You can read a bit about the harvesting process. It’s labor-intensive and heavily regulated. These divers head more than twenty feet below the water’s surface to harvest these precious clams. In fact, they ship the clams alive on the day they’re harvested due to their extreme sensitivity. In 2022, Washington State divers commercially harvested nearly 3.4 million pounds of geoduck, nearly all of them wild. This amazing undertaking produced an incredible $22.4 million in earned income. Geoduck has historically been saved for important occasions such as Chinese New Year and business meetings. At the time, it had been recently selling in U.S. restaurants for up to $100 per pound prior to tariffs blowing up the market.
This unexpected consequence of the imposition of tariffs has changed the geoduck industry’s playing field almost to a different world. Derrick McRae, a diver participant in the harvest process, highlighted his apprehension on the unknown future and potential impacts.
“We’re just kind of waiting on the edge of our seats to see what happens next.” – Derrick McRae
Chinese consumers are beginning to find U.S. geoduck too expensive. In turn, Canadian suppliers are filling the void in the fast food market. At present, Canada only has to compete with a 25% tariff against its geoduck exports, putting it at a distinct advantage to producers in the U.S. This transition has opened up a new market for Canadian exporters to take advantage of the demand that has otherwise been choked off for U.S. harvesters.
James Austin, president of Canada’s Underwater Harvesters Association, detailed why consumers favor geoduck, stating that people enjoy its oceanic taste. Yang Bin, a Chinese seafood distributor, was optimistic. For one, he argues that there isn’t much alarm over U.S. tariffs since it’s easy to find other sources for product.
“We don’t care about U.S. tariffs because we can get geoduck from other countries with stable prices.” – Yang Bin
The result was that many U.S. divers and harvesters were put in a very difficult position. George, a diver who has spent decades in the industry, expressed his frustration and anxiety over the uncertain future of his livelihood.
“It’s the first time in 24 years where I don’t know when or if we’ll be going back to work or if I have to find another job or what we’re going to do.” – George
The emotional impact on workers is critical, as they serve on the front lines of this crisis. Kyle Purser, a diver hurt by the collapse of the industry, said he was witnessing his livelihood disappear.
“When you’re watching your money disappear and you’ve got families to feed and not knowing when you’re going to get your next paycheck, (it’s) very stressful.” – Kyle Purser
While that prospect sounds grim, industry insiders aren’t yet giving up all hope on future demand for geoduck. Ian Child, a seafood market analyst, stated that the highest demand for the delicacy doesn’t appear to be going anywhere anytime soon.
“I think that the demand is still over there for the product.” – Ian Child
Understand that the outlook is still bleak for most of Washington State’s commercial harvesters today. Industry veteran Jim Boure painted a picture of how, almost overnight, the market completely dried up after tariffs were put in place.
“The whole market, everybody just had to stop.” – Jim Boure
Adding to that uncertainty, changes to trade policies hang over the market. An orderly relaunch with a good testing regime is what many divers and harvesters are now praying for—a scenario that would allow them to resume work. While they wait to hear what’s next for their futures, one thing is clear—they are dedicated to their craft.
