An exhibition titled “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” is currently on display, running through October, and it introduces visitors to the elevated forms of Black dandyism. This new exhibit makes that artistry and history come alive. It features the amazing craftsmanship of master tailor James McFarland, who made suits for legendary people like Duke Ellington, Jackie Robinson, and Muhammad Ali. As the world grapples with evolving fashion trends, figures like McFarland and style consultant Michael Andrew emphasize the importance of individuality and self-expression in fashion.
The late 80-year-old master tailor James McFarland, who himself was a pretty dapper dude, explains the nature of dandyism. Opposing the allegations that dandyism flirts with narcissism, Bevan argues that the dandy’s love of all things bespoke is based on our visual environment.
“It’s very simple: we’re a visual world.” – James McFarland
His extensive experience in tailoring, having been tutored by Orie Walls, a renowned Harlem-based tailor during the 1960s, has given him unique insights into the craft. McFarland wants people to search for the truth and aspire to be themselves and to make a statement with their physical presentation.
More than an homage to its antecedent, the “Superfine” exhibit names and shows us the dandy-spirits who are changing the face of fashion today. Michael Henry Adams, fashion historian and one of the grandfathers of inclusive fashion, remembers coming to a similar crossroads in his fashion history during the 1970s. He was frustrated with not feeling represented by the direction of the times – bell bottoms and afros.
“When I saw those photographs of elegant Harlemites promenading up and down Seventh Avenue and Lennox Avenue… I thought, ‘Oh! There is another way for me to be authentically Black.’” – Michael Henry Adams
Through Adams’s lens, we are reminded of the Black creativity steeped into the fabric of Black fashion culture as well as its rich heritage. This, he points out, is what the Met exhibit was all about — this sheer creativity. As an urban historian like him will tell you, it’s hardly a novel occurrence for the Black community.
“The ingeniousness and ingenuity and creativity of Black people … it’s always been with us.” – Michael Henry Adams
Michael Andrew is a 42-year-old men’s style consultant based in Atlanta. He takes creative cues from characters such as Fonzworth Bentley, who rose to prominence as Sean “Diddy” Combs’ dapper assistant in the early 2000s. Andrew’s first and most important point is that dandyism is, at its essence, about making fashion—your fashion—personal.
“The beauty of dandyism is making it your own.” – Michael Andrew
Independently, both Andrew and McFarland claim that confidence is the most important thing in fashion. As Guy Wood, co-owner of Harlem Haberdashery told us, when donning a suit, the act itself creates an air of importance.
“It’s confidence … you walk in the room, and all the heads turn.” – Guy Wood
Wood likens developing distinctive aesthetics to cooking gumbo. It all starts with the basics, and artisanal extras add that special touch. It all starts with the essentials, starting with weighted suits. He inspires people to think outside the box and not be afraid to experiment with different styles.
“It is being creative … most of us don’t have a lot of money. You might go in your mom’s closet and think, ‘Oh, that scarf is fly.’ You tie it around your neck and lay it over your shoulder. You just can’t be scared.” – Guy Wood
This is where texture starts to become a more important element of dandyism. Andrew tells us that mixing unique textures and patterns is the key to achieving that dandy style.
“Texture is the must-have when you start talking about dandyism — textures and patterns.” – Michael Andrew
Adding each person’s personal touch is what really brings out their style. McFarland reminds us that individuality must rule when it comes to personal expression, and especially in how we use fashion to define ourselves as people.
Farther along the hall, an outfit by Jacques Agbobly emphasizes the creativity required to be a full-fledged dandy. He expresses the feeling that each dandy is given a chance to make use of various facets to convey their personality through dress and further develop their flair.
As attendees walk through the “Superfine” installation, they’re invited to ask themselves questions about their fashion journeys. With a resurgence of interest in dandyism, many hope to embrace the stylish spirit of previous generations while carving out their own identities.
Michael Andrew is an American Road Trip 2015 participant. He challenges them to reach for their highest possible selves.
“I would challenge or would encourage all of us, especially as Black people, to remember our history, to remember that we used to throw on our Sunday’s best.” – Michael Andrew
